In the heat of Sonora

Known for his work at the Onza restaurant in Hermosillo and his podcast “Lengua Larga,” chef Juan Ángel defines the state’s gastronomy as “cuisine that revolves around the sun.” We talked to him about the tradition of grilled cooking.

By Jessica Servín Castillo
14th of january 2025

When thinking about Sonora, it is inevitable to think of meat. Still, Sonoran cuisine is the product of the combination of native techniques and the European influence that arrived in those lands several centuries ago. Wheat and beef were inherited from the Spanish, and now they are part of the foods that summarize the gastronomic customs of this state, along with corn, beans, zucchini, green or red chili, and chiltepín. 

“Sonoran cuisine has great magic; with few ingredients, we do wonders,” says Chef Juan Ángel. “This cuisine revolves around the sun: crops, dehydrated meats, or the red chili that spices up many dishes.” This source of inspiration is enough to think about Sonoran delicacies such as shredded meat with potatoes, burritos made with flour tortillas, meat with chili, beef chorizo, machaca, dried meat, and the most essential dish: grilled meat. 

“What makes it special is the type of firewood used, which gives it a different flavor than the rest of the country, in addition to the mesquite charcoal. But Sonora’s charcoal-grilled cooking begins even earlier,, with the large flour tortillas made over the embers,” says the chef. These tortillas have been a unique tradition of the state for several centuries. They are stretched with the fingertips, turned over with the arm, and placed on the comal, measuring approximately 80 cm.

“They are butter tortillas, with two preparations on the embers. The first is on the comal, and then they are transferred to a charcoal grill to brown and toast. That’s where the tradition begins, and then the other foods come until we reach the meat,” explains Juan Ángel. And here, the corn – or chicos, as they call it in the region – is also dehydrated and roasted over embers to prepare a broth called corn soup. Then comes the roast meat, particular and unique in its flavor thanks to the desert and the fattening of the cattle, added to the effect of cooking it over fire.

“In Sonora, a meeting always involves a barbecue. Fish and chicken are also prepared on the grill. And if you come to Sonora, you must always order carne asada tacos,” the chef recommends.

CHEF JUAN ÁNGEL’S FAVORITES

Chef Juan Ángel learned to cook with his mother; “it was something natural and hereditary,” he says. His homemade cooking appeals to feeling, traditional, and simple recipes. Thus, he always seeks to preserve the Sonoran cuisine of yesteryear, such as grilled cooking, a gastronomic ritual that unites families. 

Xochimilco Restaurant

Here, you will find the best-roasted tripe. @xochimilcohmo

The Blacksmith

Ideal for enjoying grilled steaks.

steaksdelherradero.com

La Trini Taco Cart

The tacos are made from decimillo, ribs, or tripitas and are seasoned only with salt.

Huasteca, Modelo, 83190 Hermosillo

About the author:
Jessica Servín Castillo
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