In a city where tradition is practically sacred, chef Pako Cortés has chosen to take a different path. His restaurant, COBARDE, located in the heart of Oaxaca, dares to question culinary conventions—not by rejecting them, but by placing them in conversation with flavors and techniques from around the world.
Cortés is no outsider to high-level kitchens. After training in acclaimed restaurants across Mexico, the U.S., and Asia, he returned to his hometown with a clear intention: to build a cuisine without borders. At COBARDE, you’ll find fermented sauces inspired by Japan, handmade bread from heirloom corn, and desserts that recall Southeast Asia—all filtered through the lens of Oaxaca.
The menu avoids the trappings of fine dining but is executed with the precision of a master craftsman. Local, seasonal ingredients are transformed into dishes that defy categorization: vegetables preserved using Asian techniques, seafood handled with quiet elegance, complex sauces built through time, and a thoughtful use of spice that challenges expectations.
More than a restaurant, COBARDE feels like an open kitchen of ideas. The atmosphere is relaxed and unpretentious, with a rooftop terrace offering sweeping views of the city. Guests sip mezcal-based cocktails with a twist and end their meals with sweets that feel both rooted and otherworldly.
What sets Cortés apart is not just his technical skill, but his perspective. Rather than replicate Oaxaca’s celebrated culinary repertoire, he chooses to engage with it—with both reverence and curiosity. Mole and corn aren’t erased; they’re reimagined through a global lens. COBARDE isn’t trying to please everyone—it’s trying to move them.
For travelers who seek more than the expected, COBARDE offers
a glimpse into a different Oaxaca: one that embraces its past but
cooks with the vocabulary of the future. The boldness isn’t in the
name. It’s in every bite.
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