The Mexican designer based in the city of Milan, Italy, describes, through his work, a contemporary vision of Mexico, his country of origin, where he experiences the fusion of folklore with a cosmopolitan and sophisticated atmosphere.
Andrés Caballero Macuil was born in Tlaxcala and studied fashion design at the Jannette Klein University in Mexico City, where in 2001 he had the opportunity to travel to the prestigious Istituto Marangoni in Milan, which would radically change his vision of design until he settled in the city and created his brand San Andrés Milano.
Because of his participation in “Who is on Next?” in 2012, Andrés Caballero gained worldwide recognition, opening doors to markets like Russia, the Middle East, and Asia.
Definitely, it’s like a book. It’s like writing a diary. It changes, it evolves. I remember when I left Mexico, I came with an idea to discover what Italian prêt-à-porter was. Something that fascinated me from the start. Then I went to study Haute Couture in Paris, and there I also immersed myself in French fashion.
I think until 2012 when I participated in Who is Next? And met Franca Sozzani, who was the director of Vogue magazine at that time, and she saw my work, she said to me: “Give us that part of Mexico that only you can see.”
Now, I’m even making genderless collections. I think it’s interesting that anyone can wear the clothes regardless of their gender. I realized that I needed to create more universal, ergonomic, and comfortable collections for all bodies.
Last year, I started a project in Mexico called Comuna MX, a group of creatives in Tlaxcala. I have always wanted to contribute to my country and concluded that I needed a network of people including designers, photographers, illustrators, writers, among others. We partnered with a Tlaxcalan designer and opened this space in Tlaxcala. We have been in contact with the State Government and the Secretaries of Culture and Tourism. The idea is to use this space to carry out projects that combine art and fashion, and to showcase these pieces with local designers in Mexico City.
It was always important to learn the style of Italian fashion and have the ability to build garments from scratch, with an artisanal approach. Now, I apply all that knowledge in my collections that have paraded in Milan Fashion Week. Then I implemented details of Mexican attire, translated from a contemporary perspective, and focused my Haute Couture studies in Paris. Over time, I transformed all that learning into international products inspired by Mexico. It was not just about wanting to be inspired by Mexican culture, but about returning to my origins as a dressmaker. Now, I apply all that knowledge in my collections.
I come from a proudly matriarchal family. Artisanal learning was always a strong point. From that example of effort from my mother, aunt, and grandmother, I learned to build things, from pattern making to cutting, sewing, and finishing the garment, something I value greatly. This artisanal and detailed approach, partly coming from my family environment, allowed me to integrate elements of our Mexican attire into details. Returning to my origins, working in the workshop manually and artisanally has been crucial in the development of my style.
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