I arrived with a small suitcase and just two days ahead of me—enough time to move between Guadalajara, Zapopan, and Tlaquepaque; eat my way around the city; step into a chocolate workshop; and end up looking up at Orozco’s murals.

Day 1

First, I left my suitcase behind. I stayed at NH Collection Guadalajara Providencia, a comfortable base for the night. Its location also makes it easy to return after exploring different parts of the city. The hotel has 137 rooms and is located on São Paulo Avenue in Providencia.

Then, I set out on foot toward Bosque Los Colomos. Here, the city seems to fall a few steps behind. There are winding paths, tall trees, and the Japanese Garden, a quiet corner where the noise of Guadalajara fades into the distance. I walked without looking too hard for a particular route, which is one of the best ways to begin discovering a city. From there, I continued along Andador Pablo Neruda, where the landscape slowly shifts from green spaces to the streets of Providencia.

From there, I crossed over to Zapopan. Its historic center is made for walking: the Basilica, the main square, and Andador 20 de Noviembre create a short route lined with churches, restaurants, galleries, and shops. I didn’t try to see everything. In 48 hours, learning to leave something for later is part of the journey, too.

The pause came in the form of a torta ahogada. At José el de la Bicicleta, the story is even in the name. The business dates back to 1960 and recalls Don José riding through the streets along Calzada Independencia on his bicycle, selling his tortas. Over time, the tradition became one of those flavors that can explain a city better than any brochure.

In the afternoon, I headed to Tlaquepaque. Its historic center moves at a different pace: façades, galleries, ceramics, and workshops appear as you make your way along Andador Independencia. I stopped at Cristina Taylor Chocolat for a tasting, and, for a while, the journey was reduced to the aroma of cacao, its textures, and the stories behind each chocolate.

That night, I returned to Providencia for dinner at Tintoretto. After a full day of walking, the city looked different: less monumental and more everyday, as if I were finally beginning to get to know it.

Day 2

The second day began in the Historic Center. Guadalajara has a particular way of bringing different eras together within just a few blocks, and it doesn’t take long to find the Cathedral, plazas, historic buildings, and Hospicio Cabañas.

I entered Cabañas through its courtyards and ended up facing the murals of José Clemente Orozco. Inside the former chapel, The Man of Fire makes you look up. There is something hypnotic about staying there for a few minutes, perfectly still, while the rest of the itinerary can wait.

To say goodbye, I returned to the table. This time, at Tortas Toño, a business that began more than three decades ago as a small stand in Providencia and now has several locations around the city. I ordered another torta ahogada, then picked up my suitcase and headed back to the airport.

In Guadalajara, 48 hours are enough to walk among trees, cross from one municipality to another, discover the clay of Tlaquepaque, explore cacao, and end up standing beneath a mural that seems to move. Everything else will have to wait for another trip.